Discovering Oban, The gateway to the isles.
Discovering Oban, the gateway to the isles. This jewel of the west coast is a must for anybody traveling the west of Scotland. There is a resident population of about 8500 which almost doubles in the height of the holiday season. So, if you’re visiting, book well ahead. If you’re taking a ferry on to the islands, why not take an extra day to explore the town.
Getting to and Traveling From Oban.
Oban, which takes its name from the Gaelic for ‘Little Bay’ is a hub for the island of the Inner Hebrides. Oban’s south pier is the starting point for ferries to Mull, Coll, Colonsay, Tiree, Barra, Islay, Jura and Lismore.
The railway station is on the pier with only a short walk to the ferries. This means you can travel direct from Glasgow to the Inner Hebrides without the need of a car. If you prefer to drive it’s just over 2 ¼ hrs from Glasgow with stunning scenery on route. If you have time take the longer route through Glencoe. Take in the grandeur of the mountains made famous by the ‘James Bond’ movie ‘Skyfall’.
Getting away from it all.
It’s a short half mile hop over to the island of Kerrera. Take the passenger ferry found on the southern edge of the town. This takes you to the middle of the island and forms the start and finish of a 10km walking circuit. Be sure to visit magnificent Gylen Castle, perched high on old sea stacks at the south end of the island.
Capital of West Highlands, and Seafood!
The town is known as the capital of the West Highlands – the “Gateway to the Isles”. Recently is has also taken the title of The Seafood Capital of Scotland”. If you are a seafood lover, take a walk to the south pier.
Just before the ferry terminal you will discover the seafood hut, known as “The Green Shack”. An unimposing building that serves some of the best seafood in Scotland. Watch as fishermen unload their catch at the pier and struggle with laden boxes of crab and lobster. Local mussels and oysters are also on the menu and my personal treat if out shopping, the crab sandwich. A wedge of bread stuffed with crab which at the time of writing is just over a fiver.
Don’t expect five-star service, just listen out for your order to be called out. No cutlery, it’s on the end of your hands. And no individual tables, just a covered area with tables to support your platter as you get tucked in.
A Wee Dram.
Now you have refreshed your hunger, time to refresh the soul.
From the south pier take a walk down the bay past the shops. As the road curves around to the north pier the Oban Distillery can be found on the right. Producing an outstanding single malt whisky, it’s well worth a visit. And of course, a wee dram to wash down the seafood would only be polite seeing as your there.
The distillery was founded in 1794. Before which, Oban was a shadow of the town it is today, with slate, wool and shipbuilding been the main industries. The whisky production was shipped out to larger ports such as Liverpool and Glasgow. This began the towns rapid expansion. Now of course tourism is the town’s main source of income.
McCraigs Tower.
From the distillery it’s a short walk to the North Pier where you will find restaurants and public toilets. Before you enter the pier, glance back towards the distillery and you will see the imposing McCaig’s Tower on battery hill. If you are (very) fit this can be reached by a set of steps called Jacob’s ladder. But car parking is also available close to the tower.
Also known as McCaigs Folly the tower was built by John Stuart McCaig. It has no military connections but was built as a monument to his family. And to provide work for local stonemasons. The original plans had a central tower to contain a art gallery. But on McCraig’s death the family stopped building leaving only the circular walls. The tower now contains gardens and provides spectacular views of Oban and Kerrera across the bay.
Salty Old Sea Dogs.
Continue around the pier (where parking is available) and come to the marina. Home to a multitude of craft in the summer season. And where you can watch the ferries pass by and see occasional cruise liners waiting for passengers to return.
The War and Peace Museum.
Continue around the pier (where parking is available) and come to the marina. Home to a multitude of craft in the summer season. And where you can watch the ferries pass by and see occasional cruise liners waiting for passengers to return.
Return back, to the road and after a few steps the Oban War and Peace Museum will be found. The Museum contains a collection of artefacts and photographs depicting the rich cultural history of Oban. You can learn about the fishing and maritime industries, the railway, road transport and local sports.
Venturing Further Afield.
If you have parked the car at the North Pier why not take a small trip to Dunollie Castle Oban’s oldest building.
Follow the shore road around for five minutes and you find signs to the castle standing guard over the bay. One of eight Clan Macdougall castles allowing them to rule much or Argyll in the 12th century.
The castle and grounds have fantastic views a peaceful contrast to the town centre. Within the grounds Dunollie house contains the Hope MacDougall collection. A historic archive of Scottish life. And if you’re feeling a bit parched after all this a tea room in the grounds awaits you.
Needing more refreshment? Hop back into the car and make your way further down the bay road. At the end of the road, you will find Ganavan Sands. A beach with views across to Mull and Lismore. Plenty of parking, more toilets if you’re in need and with luck and ice cream van.
Take a dip or just cool off your feet after all that walking.
Going a Bit Further ??
If you’re staying in Oban for a while its worth having a look at what else the area has to offer.
Head north from Oban stopping off to visit Dunstaffnage Castle. Also make a point of visiting and the new Ocean Explore centre at Scottish Association of Marine Science at Dunbeg. Just a few miles from the town centre. Continue north to Connel and cross the iconic former railway bridge. This straddles the Falls of Lora with its spectacular tidal whirlpools. There are often kayakers to be spotted in the surf below. Look up and you may see paragliders from nearby Oban Airport. . The airport has scenic plane trips available on Hebridean Airways. These fly out to Coll and Colonsay and land on a cockleshell beach runway.
Worth a diversion from the main Oban to Fort William road is the tiny hamlet of Port Appin. Home base of “The Westcoaster”. The village has a passenger ferry with direct access to the Isle of Lismore and a great restaurants. The Pierhouse Hotel & Restaurant, with rooms directly overlooking Loch Linnhe. And The Airds Hotel both offer great food and great views across to the lighthouse and Sheep island.
So, If I have encouraged you to sample the west coast of Scotland, Oban makes a great base from which to explore. I’ll keep my eyes open for you!
Enjoy Life!
John.
Hi, my name is John Webber, award winning chef and tutor, now retired to the west coast of Scotland. Welcome to our blog focusing on food, cooking, and countryside. My aim is to pass on my years of skills and knowledge together with an appreciation of the countryside.
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