Astonishing Salt, no other ingredient I know has had a greater effect on cooking and the kitchen. We need it to live, but an excess is bad for us and may even kill us!
So why do we have a love affair with salt? And what does it actually do? Read on and I’ll do my best to explain.
Astonishing Salt, and Flavour.
Salt has a profound effect on flavour, or what we perceive as flavour.
How may times have you seen somebody receive their food and immediately sprinkle salt over the plate? The perceived wisdom been it will taste better by adding salt. Years ago, this practice led to some restaurants removing the salt and pepper from the tables.
Adding salt during a cooking process allows it to blend and react with the food. Adding salt at the table will allow it to become the dominant flavour. It doesn’t bind the flavours together and can leave a salty aftertaste in the mouth.
The need for Salt.
As we are programmed to like salt (as we need it to live) salty snacks are addictive. But not that’s not the affect we want from our cooking. Salt can make food taste better. It has the effect of reducing bitterness and enhances both sweet and savoury notes. Let’s have a look at that.
Astonishing Salt, and Aroma
Surprisingly salt also lifts the aroma of food by drawing out more volatile substances into the air. And somehow enhances our sense of smell.
That trick alone is highly valuable to a chef as the aroma of food is one of the greatest assets in a customer’s flavour perception of a dish. Think of the smell of roasting coffee, cooking bacon or the memory of the markets on your last foreign holiday.
Ever wondered why your told to bake bread if you’re trying to sell your house? Or why supermarkets have on site bakeries? Aromas affect our mood and how we feel, and our enjoyment of the world around us.
Don’t be Bitter.
One of the most useful ways of seasoning with salt is using it to reduce bitterness.
For this to work the salt needs to be taken together with the food. The salt and bitter need to be in contact with your flavour receptors on the tongue at the same time. There are many examples of this.
Some coffee perfectionists will add a tiny amount to the ground coffee before brewing.
The salted rim of a margarita cocktail has the effect of dampening bitter tastes. The rim helps to counteract any bitterness from the orange liqueur or the tequila, which, in turn, enhances both the drink’s sweet and sour notes.
Bring on the Sweetness.
In conjunction with reducing bitterness, salt can increase our perception of sweetness.
If we eat a food that has both bitter and sweet notes our brain will tend to cancel the two out against each other. By adding a little salt (not enough to become dominant) the bitter notes will be held back making the food taste sweeter to our brain.
Try this out on a grapefruit segment or tomato wedge. Add a few grains of salt and they will appear sweeter that they were.
Types of salt.
Seasoning salts.
Table salt.
Also known as “iodized salt,” table salt has very fine grains and contains potassium iodide and an anti-caking agent that helps prevent it from clumping. Because the anti-caking agent can give off a metallic taste when used in large quantities, table salt shouldn’t be used in savoury recipes. It can be used when baking, though, because these types of recipes typically only call for small quantities of salt.
Pickling salt.
Used only for pickling, this coarse salt contains no iodine, minerals, or caking agent.
Curing Salt.
Curing Salt is also known as Prague Powder, or Pink Salt by butchers. It is a salt used to cure meats while help preserve them and prevent the meat from turning brown. Sodium Nitrate is added to the salt and given a pink colour to identify it from normal salts.
Curing salt is used in the manufacture of hams, bacon and sausages. A variation of curing salt is used in dried meats like Salami.
Sea salt
My personal favourite, and immensely diverse.
Harvested from evaporated sea water, sea salt can be either very or lightly salty tasting, depending on where it’s harvested, so make sure to taste it before using it. Sea salt also contains loads of minerals so it can have an intricate flavour, but since it’s fine or medium grained, it can be used in either savoury or sweet recipes.
Finishing and Flavouring Salts.
These are varieties of salt that have ether additional or added flavours. They are used to compliment or finish a dish by sprinkling on top.
French grey sea salt.
Like U.K. Sea salt this is produced from Atlantic Sea water evaporated from tidal pods on the coast of France.
Often sold as Sel Gris it has a grey colour from the minerals deposited with the salt. Best used as a finishing salt, sprinkled on food.
Red Hawaiian Salt.
Red Hawaiian salt is sea salt that is mixed with iron oxide-rich volcanic clay. Its flavour is described as nutty. Its striking red colour makes it perfect for garnishing finished dished.
Black Hawaiian salt.
This salt has a strong earthy flavour produced adding activated charcoal to the natural sea salt.
Smoked salt.
Smoked salt is made by literally smoking sea salt over hard woods. The longer the smoking process takes, the stronger the flavour and colour will be. Best used to impart a smoky flavour to sauces or just sprinkled on top of the food.
Himalayan Black Salt.
This is a very distinctive salt with the mild sulphurous taste and aroma of cooked eggs. Rock salt is cooked with charcoal, herbs, and seeds for a day.
Can be used in some spice blends and sometimes used in vegan cookery to add the flavour of egg.
Himalayan Pink Salt.
This is a very interesting salt. It originates from the Himalayan Mountains in Pakistan where it is mined. It can be used as a seasoning salt, been one of the purest salt available, but is also available in a versatile block form.
A butcher friend of mine lined his cold store with blocks of pink salt. The blocks had the effect of drying out the air in the store to improve the texture of the meat and the salt imparted a subtle flavour into the meat as the exchange took place.
Using at Home.
Now that’s not an option at home but its quite possible to cook food directly on a hot block of Himalayan salt. This is a great way of providing entertainment for your guest while creating a unique flavour. If you have a suitable heatproof stand for your salt block this can be done at the table. Letting your guests cook their own food themselves. This is best suited to quick cooking foods such as thinly sliced beef, fish, or shellfish. Avoid meats like chicken and pork for fears of undercooking. And watch out for your smoke alarm!
Cooking on Himalayan Salt Blocks.
Heating the block.
The first thing to do is heat the salt block. This needs to be slowly done to avoid the block from cracking. Pop the block into a cold oven and set the temperature to about 120˚c.
Turn on the oven and once the temperature is reached keep heating the block for 10minutes. Increase the temperature to 150˚c again for 10 minutes. Finally bring the temperature to 200-220. For a final 10 minutes.
It is possible to heat the block over a gas burner set to a low flame. The block will take a good 20 to 30 minutes to reach a cooking temperature. This can be tricky and needs care not to break the block moving it off the stove. Alternatively try the process on the BBQ were there’s no need to move the salt around.
The Cooking.
The food to be cooked needs a light dusting of oil before been placed on the block, DON’T season it!
Shake off any excess oil then lay the food onto the hot block. Don’t move it around, let a crust form and it will not stick to the surface of the block. When watching somebody on a BBQ its common to see them constantly moving the food around. That’s a sure-fire way of making it stick. Leave it alone, watch the heat climb up through the food then turn it once and leave it until its ready.
The block will impart a pleasant salty slightly smoky flavour to the food. Remember the salt block will retain the heat a lot longer than a pan. Let the block cool naturally, before storing.
Rules of working with salt.
When working with stews and sauces add a little salt at the start of cooking. This gives time for the salt to interreact with the flavours in the food.
Add salt to the cooking water of green vegetables apart from peas and beans. The salt will increase the boiling point of the water helping keep the colour. But in the case of peas and broad beans the salt will toughen the sin of the vegetable.
Always, always, taste the food before finishing with salt.
When cooking pasta add a generous pinch of salt to the water as it boils. The salt in the water will season the pasta. Remember to use the cooking water in your pasta sauce if its needs thinning out.
Cake batters, biscuits and doughs benefit from a pinch of salt added to them.
Salt is essential for making bread but remember to keep it away from the yeast. Direct contact with salt will kill the yeast.
Never expose the surface of raw meat or fish to salt for any length of time unless you intend to cure the product. The salt will toughen the surface of the protein and begin to remove natural juices from the food.
The desiccating effect of salt can be useful in removing the bitterness from vegetables like aubergine and courgettes. Light sprinkle the cut surface of the vegetables with salt and leave for 10 minutes. Rinse off the salt and dry the vegetables before cooking.
TIP. A mixture of salt and sugar is very effective for this procedure.
Use a pinch of salt to crush garlic. This is the chef’s way of crushing garlic. Chop the garlic add a good pinch of salt then use the side of the knife to grind the garlic in the salt. Not only does this make a smooth paste of the garlic but also extracts more flavour out of the bulb.
Enjoy Life!
John.
Hi, my name is John Webber, award winning chef and tutor, now retired to the west coast of Scotland. Welcome to our blog focusing on food, cooking, and countryside. My aim is to pass on my years of skills and knowledge together with an appreciation of the countryside.
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