Destination, The Isle of Lismore, My Island Getaway.

Destination, The Isle of Lismore, My Island Getaway.

The Isle of Lismore is one of almost eighty islands which form the Inner Hebrides on the west coast of Scotland. So, with so many to choose from, why am I writing about It? Well, it’s because Lismore is my local island escape, yet it feels like a world away.

Just 10 miles long and about a 1 mile wide, Lismore is to be found sitting in loch Linnhe between Oban to the south and Port Appin to the north. The lush, fertile island is a marvellous resource of history and wildlife. In fact, the Islands original Gaelic name translates to the “Great Garden”.

Very few people live on the island, roughly 170 at last count. This benefits the wildlife, and as wells as seabirds, otters, and seals can be seen along with the possibility of a falcon or sea eagle.

Lismore is an amazing place just to wander, relax and enjoy the serenity of the location. Take in some amazing views across to the hills of Mull and the Morvern peninsula.

To date, Lismore has not been overrun by visitors like Skye or Iona. My advice is to get there before it become too popular.

Isle of LismoreHow to get there.

There are two ferry services to the island. The main ferry leaves from Oban for a 45minute trip and allow you to take a car over. If you need it, (see below)

The island has one main road, running from end to end with branches off to cover the island. It’s a single-track road with the odd passing place, so if you’re not used to rural driving, a bicycle is the best idea. This would be my recommendation. Some locations cannot be reached by car, and there are not many places you can abandon the car and finish the journey on foot.

The Appin to Lismore Ferry
The Appin to Lismore Ferry

My preference is to take the foot ferry from the pier at Port Appin. It’s a 10-minute hop across the water to the north tip of the island. The ferry takes bicycles and runs an hourly service. Bicycle hire is available at Port Appin, or on Lismore if needed.

Isle of Lismore – getting around.

There is no conventional public transport on the island. There is a local taxi service (best to pre-book) to get around.

The service also provides guided tours, and an off-road service if you wish to visit some of the locations off the beaten track. Explore Lismore Island Taxi & Land Rover Tours

So let go on a virtual tour of the Isle of Lismore.

From Port Appin.

Take the car to Port Appin, (see our guide to  Port Appin ‘HERE‘) and leave the car in the carpark opposite the pier. Take the ferry from the pier across to the north tip of the island (hourly service apart from lunchtime).

If you are cycling, follow the road keeping the water to your left. If you are on foot, you can ether follow the road or take the coastal trail to Port Ramsay.

Taking the coastal footpath.

To do this, as you leave the ferry jetty cross over the grass to a short climb on to the coastline above some rocks that drop down to the sea. Follow the coastline past a pebbly bay. And when the going gets rough head diagonally up across the grass heading for a gap in a drystone wall. Head towards the next boundary (there is little left of the fence) finding a gap, then bear right to follow the coastline above low cliffs.

As the ground drops a track joins in from the left, take the track, then bear right which will descend down to Port Ramsay. From there you can ether decide to retrace your steps or follow the tarmac road out of Port Ramsay, to the main B8045. Once to reach that, turning left will take you back to the Port Appin foot ferry terminal.

On the way to Port Ramsay
On the way to Port Ramsay

Taking the road, by foot or bike.

If you have opted for the main road, keep going with the sea on your right hand and after just over a mile a turning to the right will appear, which is the road down to Port Ramsay.

The Cathedral of the Isles
The Cathedral of the Isles

Carry on down the road, and it will begin to move inland. The Lismore parish Church will appear on the right-hand side. The Church is sometimes known as the “Cathedral of the Isles” as it was built on the site of the Cathedral of St Moluag which was destroyed in the 16th century. 

Time for a break.

As the land opens out a little the fire station will be on the left. Shortly after that the heritage centre and café will be on your right. This is well worth a stop to spend some time learning more about the history of Lismore and refuel yourself for more exploring.

Carrying on the Lismore Stores and Post Office will appear on the right. Here you can pick up some groceries and perhaps send a postcard.

Going off the beaten track.

Old Cottage at Salen, Isle of lismore
Old Cottage at Salen, Isle of lismore

Shortly after that road, there is a turning to the right between two white cottages marked Sailean. A short 1.5-mile road that leads to Salan and the east side of the island. This leads to Salen on the west of the island where you will find an old harbour and derelict lime kilns. Enjoy some magnificent views across to the hills of the Morvern peninsula.

The Oban ferry.

Back on the main road after the 5-mile mark from the Port Appin ferry is a turning down to the left which leads to the Oban-Lismore car ferry terminal. Now of course if you have opted to take the car over from Oban, this is your starting point.

Once you reach the main road everting you have just read about will be reached by a turn to the left. Everything below, take a right turn.

The next point of interest is a turning to the left marked Achinduin. This again leads to the west of the island. The road terminates at a farm where a track continues on to the ruin of Achanduin Castle well worth a visit with great views across the sea.

Its on this road where you will find the Midfarm Gallery. Here Greig Gilcrist produces wall and table art made from foraged materials.

The end of the road.

The road now continues on to Kilcheran.  This is the limit of normal car travel. Of course, if you are on a suitable bike, or on foot there is still more of the southern tip of the island to discover.

Visit loch Fiart. The loch has the site of an old broch, a defensive stone tower many of which are 2000 years old.

Isle of Lismore lighthouse
Isle of Lismore lighthouse

If you are interested in taking this walk, then I would recommend checking out Lismore Walks, a web site which details great walks around the island. Although be warned, if you are thinking about it. You can’t actually visit the lighthouse that sits on an island at the southern tip of the island. But the views as you get close make up for that.

The Isle of Lismore has so much to offer, do be sure to visit.

Achanduin Castle
Achanduin Castle

The Lismore Gaelic Heritage Centre, and café. Visit a reconstructed croft house and enjoy a coffee and some local baking.

The Midfarm Gallery. On the road to Achanduin.

Visit Achanduin castle Coeffin Castle named after a Danish prince.

The island is dotted with brochs, duns and cairns dating as far back as the Bronze age. See how many you can find.

Take one of the Explore Lismore cross country tours to discover hidden gems!

Isle of Lismore, Accommodation.

There are no hotels on the island, but there are a number of holidays lets available.

The Lismore Bunkhouse and campsite is located roughly halfway down the island.

Contact, [email protected]

Enjoy your stay.

John.

Hi, my name is John Webber, award winning chef and tutor, now retired to the west coast of Scotland. Welcome to our blog focusing on food, cooking, and countryside. My aim is to pass on my years of skills and knowledge together with an appreciation of the countryside.

Join us to experience the beauty of the west coast, cook some great food and be at ease in the kitchen.

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