Discovering Appin, a Scottish haven of peace, and magic.

Discovering Appin, a haven of peace and magic. If you’re taking a stay in Oban, take advantage of the wealth of places to visit just a short dive out of town. Traveling north from Oban about 25 minutes drive is Appin, a rural coastal village on the shores of loch Creran and loch Linnhe.

Appin and the surrounding area is an oasis away from the hustle and bustle of the town. Yes, it’s Scotland and the weather is not always tropical but that doesn’t matter. With darkening clouds glowering over the mountains, slinking down to meet the swirling mist rising from the sea. It’s easy to see the magic and mystique of this amazing area. If you haven’t already, remember to check out our guide to Oban and what it has to offer.

Getting there.

From the south.

Travel north out of Oban, then turn off the main road to cross the Connel Bridge. This was originally a combined rail and road bridge. In the days when trains puffed in and out of the village to ferry passengers and fright.

Cross over the bridge and if the tides right you will see the Falls of Lora as the water flows out from Loch Etive to the sea. As the water is forced through the narrow straight’s strong currents and whirlpools form. A favourite place for Kayakers to test their nerve.

A few miles further on the village of Benderloch appears. Here you will find a handy shop and a nice single beach worth a visit on a nice day.

In a short time, you will cross the Creagan bridge (another ex-railway bridge) with views down Loch Crenan towards Fasnacloich and Beinn Sgulaird. Plenty of good walks in this area, (see below).

Six miles more brings you into the village of Appin. The village stretches onwards past the Old Inn Restaurant. Culminating in a steep rise with the Castle Stalker Viewpoint and café at the summit. Time for some refreshments and to take in the view down towards Port Appin.

From the North.

Traveling from Fort William continue south until you cross the Ballachulish Bridge. You will approach a small roundabout, take the turning to the left marked coastal route. Follow the coast road for about fourteen miles and signs for Appin will appear. Just as you see speed restriction signs the castle Stalker Viewpoint will be on your right-hand side.

Two Appins?

Yes, there are two Appin’s, the Village of Appin and Port Appin, in fact it’s all one but you might be forgiven in thinking they are separate. The term ‘Port’ in Scottish place names indicates a ferry landing point.

Let’s go and Explore.

From the Viewpoint, head back on to the main road and turn left. Continue to the garage then turn right, signposted Port Appin. Its single-track road, so take care to use the passing places and look out for walkers and cyclists. Shortly you will see Castle Stalker in the distance on your right.

Castle Stalker is one of the best-known castles in Scotland featuring on many a postcard and calendar. One of Scotland’s most romantic and much-photographed castles it occupies a tiny rock island close to Port Appin at Loch Laich.

An Iconic Castle.

The Castle which was built in 1320 by the MacDougall’s was passed to the Stewart Lords of Lorn in 1388 who finished it to its current form. The name “stalker” been a reference to Hunter or Falconer.

Its main claim to modern fame was its use as locations for Monty Python and the Holy Grail as “The Castle of Aaaaarrrrrrggghhh”. And in Highlander Endgame.

The Appin community trust have produced a soundwalk for visitors to Appin to guide you through the history geology and life of the area. This really add to a visit of the area and takes you deep into the past life of the area. Access to the download can be found at https://www.echoesofappin.org/

Once you have taken in the castle, carry on up the road to Port Appin. Here you will find a doctor’s surgery, shops, Hotels and the passenger ferry to the Isle of Lismore.

Time for shopping.

Park up opposite the Appin Stores stock up on some snacks and take in the Craft Shop next door. Here you will find the work of local artists and crafters producing unique gifts and memories of your trip.

It’s a short run down to the pier past the boathouse, housing the Appin Skiff, Nellie G. As you reach the pier the public car park and toilets are located on the left. The passenger ferry for Lismore leaves from the pier roughly on the hour. Bike hire is available, and a visit to Lismore should not be missed.

Stretching your legs.

Clach Thoul walk.

Opposite the pier you will find the Pier House hotel and behind the hotel starting in the car park is the Clach Thoul walk.

This is a fairly leisurely walk taking you around the peninsular with stunning views across to south Lismore. At the halfway point you will come across a sea arch Now high and dry and clinging to the cliff face. As you walk anti clockwise you will come into Airds Bay with a level track and wooded area. The walk finishes at a gate on the single-track road to the side of the Airds Hotel. You can of course do the walk, in reverse.

The wonderful thing about it is that whichever direction you take you will finish at one of the hotels to grab some refreshments and recover.

Jubilee Bridge walk.

Another favourite walk of mine begins at Castle Stalker. There is limited parking opposite the castle on the road out of Appin.

Leave the car there and take the path to cross the Jubilee Bridge to the opposite shore. This connects you with the main cycle path. Turn left and the path will lead you past the old Appin station and on to the castle pier. You are much closer to the castle here, a good place to take photographs.

Venturing Further Afield.

There is an abundance of places worth visiting if you are staying in Appin. Whether you’re a hill walker or just taking the family out for a stroll you won’t be disappointed.

Head back onto the main road (A828) making a turn right heading towards Oban. Just past the Creagan Inn you will reach a small roundabout. Take the first exit onto the old road around the loch now known as the Creagan Loop).

Glasdrum Woods are located about two miles down the road and has walks through an Atlantic Forest. The area is also well known for butterflies including the rare Chequered Skipper.

Fasnacloich.

Keep going down the road past the old bridge over the river taking the single-track road ahead of you. Roughly, three miles on you will reach the end of the road at Fasnacloich and the gates to Glen Ure. Fasnacloich takes its name from the Gaelic “the tree in the rock.” Names after a pine tree which grew out of the top of a large rock in the area.

Murder Most Foul.

This part of Argyll is steeped in the history of the Appin Stewart’s. Colin Campbell ‘the Red Fox’ who was the owner of Glen Ure and supporter of the Hanoverian monarchy was factor and rent-collector of the surrounding King’s estates. He was allegedly murdered on 14^th May 1752 by James Stewart of the Glen who was subsequently hanged.

Robert Louis Stevenson based his novels ‘Catriona’ and ‘Kidnapped’ on the story of the murder of The Red Fox of Glen Ure in the Appin area.

The Fairy Bridge.

Park outside the gates in the car park and walk up the Forestry Commission designated path (on the other side of the road) towards the viewpoint of Glen Ure (keeping the road you’ve just come up) on your left. Just as you’re about to turn back on yourself you’ll see a small overgrown deer-path which goes over a small burn

Take this small over-grown path and walk about five minutes and you’ll discover the Fairy Bridge.  This small, quaint bridge with upthrust stones along the edges spans a small burn and waterfall. The location has a magical air and remember to greet the fairies as you cross or bad luck will befall you!

Take the same path back to where you came off the main path then continue on the higher pathway, and you’ll come to an information board looking towards Glen Ure the home of the Red Fox of Appin Murder.

Sutherlands Grove.

This can be reached by either retracing your steps to the old bridge over the river and continuing on the Cregan loop. Or by making you way back to the main road and crossing the loch over the new bridge, again heading towards Oban on the A828

Just over two miles after crossing the bridge the turning to Sutherland Grove will be seen on the left. Just before Barcaldine Primary School.

Sutherlands Grove has a number of trails through ancient Scots Forest. Take the walk up the Abhainn Teithil burn and cross at the gorge or carry on towards a reservoir deep in the woods.  Remember to lookout for the troll at the bridge!

In need of a beach?

There are two beaches within a short drive of Appin.

Heading south towards Oban. Reach the village of Benderloch and look for a car park opposite the shop. From there it’s a five-minute walk to the beach comprising of shingle and sand. It’s a large beach so great for tiring out the kits or walking the dog. Then pick up an ice cream in the local shop.

Heading north towards Fort William. As you reach the village or Duror you will see a graveyard on your left. The road winds left and right, so slow down and look for a turning to your left. It’s a single-track road with houses on one side with a small sign to Coul Bay. Follow the road along and you will come to the beach with parking places available. The beach is sandier than Benderloch and has some great walks along the rock shore at the far end. One of my favourite places.

Well, that’s it, look forward to seeing you around. For further info have a look at https://www.appin.scot/  the community information website.

Accommodation and Food.

The Airds Hotel and Restaurant.

The Pier House Hotel and Restaurant.

Castle Stalker View Cafe.

The Old Inn Restaurant.

Creagan Inn, Bar and Restaurant

Enjoy life!

John.

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©John Webber. 2023