Tag: home made

How to Make, Lemon Barley Water, a Summertime Classic

How to Make, Lemon Barley Water, a Summertime Classic

This easy Lemon Barley Water is a British classic and a must for any outdoor event. This is not difficult to make but takes a little time to infuse and chill. Make it the day before to let it get as cold as possible before use. Once you have tasted the real thing, you will never go back to shop-bought cordial again.

Make Your Own Pork and Duck Rillettes at Home

Make Your Own Pork and Duck Rillettes at Home

Rillettes are a type of coarse French potted meat. The meats are cooked long and slow then broken down, almost like pulled pork. Don’t expect a nice smooth pateˊ this is a meat eaters paradise. Served with toasted sourdough bread and ideal taken on a summer picnic.

Don’t forget to look up our post on How to make your own pork sausages. Its easier than you think!

Index

What are Rillettes?

Rillettes were originally a method of preserving and using the fattier parts of pork. Here I have married the pork with duck, another favourite meat of mine. The meat is salted then cooked slowly with fat not all that dissimilar with  Duck Confit. Rillettes, although rustic are equally at home served at a dinner party, eaten alfresco, or packed with a bottle of wine and good bread for a countryside picnic.

Traditionally this is cooked in the oven. But if you don’t want to have your oven on for so long, a slow cooker works well in tenderising the meat.

You will need; –

  • Ovenproof casserole and / or slow cooker
  • Chopping board and knife
  • Large Pyrex bowl
  • Colander
  • Mortar and pestle or spice grinder
  • Measuring spoons
  • 2 table forks
  • Heatproof spatula
  • Small earthenware or glass pots with lids to store the Rillettes.

Pork and Duck Rillettes.

Pork and Duck Rillettes ingredients.
Pork and Duck Rillettes ingredients.

Makes 5-6 small jars

Oven temp 150˚c – 120ºfan oven.

Stage 1.

  • 200g                diced pork belly.
  • 200g                diced shoulder pork.
  • 1                      male Gressingham duck leg
  • 1 ¼  tsp           Salt

Stage 2.

  • 100g                diced pork fat or lard.
  • 100ml              dry white wine
  • 100ml              water
  • Small               sprig rosemary
  • 2                      cloves of garlic
  • 1 small            bay leaf
  • ¼ tsp               salt
  • 4                      black peppercorns
  • 1                      clove
  • 2                      juniper berries

The day before, curing.

Cut the belly and shoulder pork into 2cm dice and place in a large Pyrex bowl. Sprinkle the 1tsp of salt  over the meat and rub into the meat with your fingers.  Rub the remaining ¼ tsp of salt into the meaty side of the duck leg and place on top of the pork. Cover the bowl and leave to stand in the fridge overnight.

Next day, on to the cooking.

Washing the cured meats.
Washing the cured meats.

Pour the pork and duck leg into a colander and rinse under running cold water to wash off any remaining salt. Drain well then tip the pork into a casserole placing the duck leg on top.

Rendering the pork fat in wine.
Rendering the pork fat in wine.

Chop the fat and add to the pan. Add the wine, water, rosemary, garlic, and bay then put the casserole over a low heat.

Using a mortar and pestle of spice mill crush the juniper, clove, and peppercorns with the ¼ tsp of salt. Sprinkle this over the meats and add to the pan.

Into the oven.

When the fat begins to run from the meats pop on the lid and cook in the oven for 3-4 hours on very low heat (150˚c – 120ºfan oven) for 3-4 hours until the meat begins to break up.

The cooked Rillettes.
The cooked Rillettes.

Alternatively, start the process on the hob as above then transfer the mix to a slow cooker but reduce the water to 50ml.

When the meat easily falls apart when pressed with a fork, lift the meat into a bowl and strain off the fat. If there is still a lot of liquid remaining with the fat boil it off in a small pan, A little liquid in with the fat is fine.

Straining off the fat and liquid from the meats.
Straining off the fat and liquid from the meats.

Finishing the Pork and Duck Rillettes.

Remove the skin from the duck leg and flake off the meat. Add that to the pork then break up the meat with a couple of forks adding some of the fat as you mix. If you are short of fat some lard can be mixed into the pan. If you have fat left over from cooking Duck Confit that’s ideal.

Adding fat to the Rillettes.
Adding fat to the Rillettes.

Finishing the Rillettes.

Potting up pork and Duck Rillettes.
Potting up pork and Duck Rillettes.

Once the meat is broken down with the fat you should have a moist, succulent mixture. Have a taste and add more seasoning if needed. Bear in mind that as this is eaten cold it will seem a little less seasoned when eaten than it tastes now, so don’t be shy.

Fill small ramekins or glass jars with the meat spoon over some of the remaining fat. This will seal the top and keep off the air.

Pots of Rillettes sealed with cooking fat.
Pots of Rillettes sealed with cooking fat.

Let the Rillettes cool completely and store in the fridge.

Serving.

Pork and Duck Rillettes with Tomato and Chilli Jam.
Pork and Duck Rillettes with Tomato and Chilli Jam.

Let them come up to room temperature before serving and serve with hot toasted sourdough bread.

Can I make the rillettes in advance?

Yes, in fact they are better made a few days ahead as the flavour will develop. Making ahead also makes these a very convenient starter or picnic food.

Do I have to use pork to make Rillettes?

No Rabbit, Goose, and Duck are all traditionally used as well. As for the fat you can buy duck and goose fat in jars in the supermarket.

Why do you use a male duck leg?

The male duck leg is larger with more meat on it. They are also more commonly found in supermarkets than the female legs. Two small female legs would be fine for the recipe if you have them.

Enjoy Life!

John.

Hi, my name is John Webber, award winning chef and tutor, now retired to the west coast of Scotland. Welcome to our blog focusing on food, cooking, and countryside. My aim is to pass on my years of skills and knowledge together with an appreciation of the countryside.

Join us to experience the beauty of the west coast, cook some great food and be at ease in the kitchen.

©John Webber. 2023

Dusting with flour

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Make Your Own Amazing Buttermilk Bread Rolls

Make Your Own Amazing Buttermilk Bread Rolls

These Buttermilk Bread Rolls will really impress your dinner party guests. They go well with most starters that don’t require crispy rolls served alongside.

Easy, Spiced Carrot and Walnut Cake, With Mascarpone Cream

Easy, Spiced Carrot and Walnut Cake, With Mascarpone Cream

This Easy Spiced Carrot and Walnut Cake is one of my favourite cakes. Great for making in advance as the flavour develops over a couple of days. The cake also becomes moister as the sugar in the cake absorbs moisture from the air. I sometimes make two at once and freeze one for later use.

How to Make Your Own Pork Sausages.

How to Make Your Own Pork Sausages.

Learning How to Make Your Own Pork Sausages at Home is great fun. Sausages are one of the most flexible foods we have available to us. Whether it’s a comforting plate of bangers and mash, fending off the cold weather. A quick buttered sausage roll as a snack, or the compulsory BBQ sausage, it’s a year – round, go to treat.

Most people will have a favourite sausage, British or continental. I’ve lost track on how many different types and flavours are available to us today. However, variety is one thing, quality is another, so read on!

So, What’s in a Sausage?

Well apart from any flavourings you want to add, Meat! The problem can be deciding on what is meat. Meat in its natural form has fat, and fat is important to the eating quality of our sausage. Just enough will provide flavour and moisture. Too much and a greasy feel will be left in the mouth. Too little and the sausage will be dry and tough.

Fat also adds flavour. In fact, it adds flavour to most things. As the fat dissolves on your tongue, it transmits the flavour of your food to the tastebuds. This enhances the experience of eating the food and something we are hard-wired into enjoying.

Whatever meat you are using Beef, Pork, lamb, Venison etc the fat is important. For beef sausages suet fat is ideal. For all the others I would stick to pork fat.

Don’t be afraid of fat but do control it.  Perhaps one rainy afternoon ill draft out a Food Files page on fats to help everybody understand how they work.

What are Sausage Casings?

Natural Pork Sausage casings

There is one rule I like to apply here. Never Trust a Straight Sausage!

There are basically two main types of casing, natural and synthetic.
Natural casings are from the intestines of animals. They will be irregular in diameter according to how far down the gut then are obtained from. This provides sized from a chipolata right up to a salami size. The animal they are taken from will dictate the thickness and strength of the casing. Pork casings are relatively strong and a good size for most uses. lamb casing are more fragile and are smaller in diameter.

Preservation.

Commonly the casings are preserved in salt and need to be soaked and washed before filling.  If your local butcher makes their own sausages, they can help you or have a look online. As you will know the intestines are coiled around inside the carcase. This gives the sausage its curved appearance. A sure sign it’s a natural sausage.

Alternative casings.

Synthetic casings for edible sausages are manufactured from animal collagen. Personally, I don’t like the feel of them in the mouth. Some smoked and cured sausages intended as charcutier have plastic cases which are not edible.

If all else fails, you can from the meat into patties coat them in four and fry. To go one stage further egg and breadcrumb the patties. Cook slowly in butter so the meat cooks though without the coating burning.

Mincing the meat.

Meat mincer with a sausage filling funnel
Meat mincer with a sausage filling funnel

You don’t need fancy, expensive equipment to make your own sausages. A tabletop hand mincer is fine (although hard work) and I filled my first sausages using a cut off plastic funnel and piping bag.

A mincer attachment for your food mixer is a good choice. If you really get into it a small electric mincer can be bought for not too much money.

The key thing is to ensure the blade is sharp and you have the right size of mincer plate fitted.

It’s best not to use frozen meat if you can as it doesn’t bind together as well as fresh, Cut the meat and fat into cubes no larger than 2cm and keep the meat in the fridge before mincing.

Chefs will often put the mincer in the fridge or freezer before use to stop the meat from heating up due to friction in the mincer. This also helps with the shelf life of the sausages’.

Its not a bad idea to fry a small patty of the filling before filling the casings. This allows you to check the seasoning before committing to moving on to the filling stage.

Make Your Own Pork Sausages.

You Will Need: –

  • Mincer.
  • Sausage filling attachment or piping bag and tube.
  • Mixing bowl.
  • 2 Small bowls.
  • Trays
  • Spatula.
  • Chopping board and knife
  • Shallow saucepan (for apple and rosemary version)

Pork Sausages.

Makes 7 good sized Pork Sausages.

  • 400g               trimmed pork shoulder
  • 150g               rindless green gammon
  • 70g                 pork loin fat
  • 5g                   mustard seeds
  • 2tbsp              dry white wine
  • 1 slice             crustless white bread
  • 100ml             milk
  • ½ tsp              mace
  • 6g                  curing or table salt
  • 1/8 tsp            cayenne pepper
  • ¼ tsp              black pepper
  • 1tsp               chopped fresh sage leaves
  • 1 slice of bread to clean out mincer

The Night before.

Mustard seeds soaked overnight in white wine
Mustard seeds soaked overnight in white wine

Put the mustard seeds in a small dish and pour over the white wine. Cover and leave overnight for the seeds to soften.

Making the filling.

Pour the milk onto a small bowl and add the bread. Leave to soak for five minutes.

White bread soaked in milk
White bread soaked in milk

Take the meats and remove any sinew. Cut the meats and fat into roughly 2cm cubes and mix together in a bowl.

Lift the bread from the milk and squeeze out the excess liquid to form a wet ball. Add the bread to the meat and discard the milk.

Pork Sausage mix ready for mincing
Pork Sausage mix ready for mincing

Add the mustard seeds and wine together with the rest of the seasonings and mix well.

Fit a 6mm sized plate to the mincer then pass all the mixture through the mincer back into the bowl.

Return half of the mix to the mincer and re-mince once more back into the bowl.

Pork Sausage filling, ready to go into casings
Pork Sausage filling, ready to go into casings

Take a sturdy spoon and begin the mix the coarse and fine mixtures together. Don’t be afraid to give the mixture a good basing about as this helps the meats bind together.

Butchers commonly add water into the filling while mixing. This arguably adds moisture to the filling making the sausage juicer. Ever noticed all that gunk coming out of shop-bought sausages as you cook them? And I’m sure all that free weight helps with the profits. If you do want to try for a moister filling just add two or three tablespoons of water in as you beat the mix.

That it! You’re all ready to go to the filling stage.

How to fill the Casings.

Washing Pork Sausage casings
Washing Pork Sausage casings

Take some of the casings out of the container and shake off any excess salt. Wash the casings under running water for a moment then place in a bowl of cold water to soak for twenty minutes.

Piping bag method.

To fill the sausage casings with a piping bag, spoon the sausage meat into a large piping bag fitted with the widest plain plastic nozzle. I have used the cut off tube of a plastic funnel in the past, with some success.

Rinse the casings in cold water and roll the open end over the nozzle, like putting on a stocking! Hold the first 2 inches of the casing closed and squeeze the filling into the casing to form the first sausage, easing the casing from the nozzle as it fills. Stop when the sausage is big enough and twist gently before filling the next one. Tie the loose end of the casing on the first sausage. Continue until all the filling is used up. If you like, tie the sausages at intervals between the links with fine string then cut into individual sausages.

Using a sausage filling attachment.

Loading the stuffing funnel with casings
Loading the stuffing funnel with casings

If you are lucky enough to have a sausage filling attachment for your mincer it’s the same idea. Roll the washed casing onto the filling tube Then load the hopper with the sausage meat. Pull about 8cm of casing down the tube so it’s hanging off the end then slowly start the mincer until the filling appears at the end of the tube.

Starting to fill the casings
Starting to fill the casings

Stop the mincer then tie off the loose casing tight to the filling. This method will stop air been forced into the casing as the filling begins. Restart the mincer slowly keeping a steady flow of filling coming down the tube been careful not to over fill the casing.  A little slack on the skins if fine. Stop filling well before the casing runs out as you will need spare casing available to form the sausages.

Filled Pork Sausage casings
Filled Pork Sausage casings

Decide how long you want your sausages to be, then starting at the knotted end pinch the casing at the desired length to force the meat back down the casing then twist the casing together to form a seal. Again, just as when we filed the sausages make sure the casing is not too stretched or it may break when cooked. Keep going until you have formed all the sausages and repeat the process until all the filling is used.

Avoiding waste.

There will still be an amount of good meat trapped in the body of the mincer. To avoid wasting this put a slice of bread through the mincer at the end and the meat will be pushed through. Any bread can be pushed back out of the casing before the sausages are formed.

Using a sausage press.

You can also obtain a sausage press which resembles a big syringe clamped to the table. You simply fill the body of the press with the sausage meat. Clamp on the front and proceed as described above.

If you are using a hand powered mincer or a press a second pair of hands is great help. Otherwise, it’s difficult to control the sausage casing and work the press/mincer at the same time.

Cooking Sausages.

One golden rule – Don’t prick them!!!!!.

The purpose of the sausage casings is not just to make a pleasing shape but also to holds in moisture. If you prick your sausages the moisture will escape leaving you with a dry shrivelled up result.

If you’re having problems with the sausages bursting. It’s possible you have over filled the casings putting too much stress on the skin. The most common cause of bursting is simply cooking too quickly.

Take it slowly.

Whether you’re grilling, frying, or barbequing your sausages the process is the same.

Take the sausages out of the fridge before cooking to let them warm a little. Start the cooking briefly over a highish heat to set the skins then reduce the heat until cooked through. If you’re not happy with the colour a quick blast over a higher heat will do the trick.

It takes time for the heat to penetrate through the meat. Unlike a steak the surface won’t caramelise and gain flavour. It just burns, think of the classic BBQ burnt sausages and you will know what I mean.

If you’re grilling or barbequing rub the skins with a little oil before cooking.

Some varieties of sausage are gently poached, then stored prior to grilling. But for our home-made sausage grill or fry directly from raw.

Make sure they are cooked.

As sausages are a processed meat, they must be cooked all the way though before eating. I always recommend a probe thermometer when cooking. Ensure the centre of the sausage has reached 73ºc to be certain they are cooked.

F.A.Qs.

How long will my sausages keep?

One of the big differences between shop bought and home made is the lack of preservatives.

Use the freshest meat possible and don’t leave it hanging around at room temperature. Keep your equipment as cool as possible and wear disposable gloves when handling meat.

I would aim to use my fresh sausages on the day or the day after making. If that’s a problem, freeze the sausages as soon as they are made. Its best to freeze them separated on a paper lined tray, then transfer them to a bag when solid.

They should keep up to three months in a good freezer. But make sure they are thoroughly defrosted before cooking.

I don’t have a mincer; can I use a food processor.

While I wouldn’t say definitely not, its not ideal. The mincer is not a violent as the processer and breaks the tissues down better. If a processer is your only possibility process the meat in small batches using the pulse control. Don’t overdo it remember the meat is meant to be chopped not pureed. The sharper the blade the better to result.

What is Curing Salt?

Curing Salt is also known as Prague Powder, or Pink Salt by butchers. It is a salt used to cure meats while help preserve them and prevent the meat from turning brown. Sodium Nitrate is added to the salt and given a pink colour to identify it from normal salts.

Curing salt is used in the manufacture of hams, bacon and sausages. A variation of curing salt is used in dried meats like Salami.

Butchers pink salt
Butchers pink salt

I can’t get hold of sausage casings, what do I do?

You can find the casings available online. However, if you want the fillings can be formed into sausage shapes using wet hands. Chill the shapes in the fridge to firm them up then coat then in flour, egg, and dry breadcrumbs. Fry the sausages gently in butter, insuring they are cooked through.

Enjoy Life!

John.

Hi, my name is John Webber, award winning chef and tutor, now retired to the west coast of Scotland. Welcome to our blog focusing on food, cooking, and countryside. My aim is to pass on my years of skills and knowledge together with an appreciation of the countryside.

Join us to experience the beauty of the west coast, cook some great food and be at ease in the kitchen.

If you enjoyed your visit with us, please subscribe up to our newsletter to receive regular updates of what’s new and upcoming at The Westcoaster. Subscribe Here

©John Webber. 2023

Try A Beautifully Light Helston Pudding, My Easy Christmas Dessert.

Try A Beautifully Light Helston Pudding, My Easy Christmas Dessert.

Beautifully light Helston Pudding. It’s easy to make comfort food which makes a light alternative to Christmas Pudding. I have put in a couple of minor changes to make it even more Christmassy, and served it with an orange brandy sauce.

Making The Best Basil Pesto.

Making The Best Basil Pesto.

In my opinion this is the best basil pesto you can make. I hate the off green sludge sold as pesto in the supermarkets. You can be sure its not made with the best of ingredients. It’s dull, flat flavour could put you off pesto for life, if you didn’t know better.

I want to see the ingredients I am using. This version of pesto has diced Parmesan Cheese and whole pine kernels though the sauce to give texture and added interest to any Pasta Pesto.

To put this into perspective, I once bought a jar of Harissa. A Smokey, peppery, red chili paste used in middle eastern cookery. When I studied the ingredients on the jar the main ingredient was not peppers or chilli, but Beetroot! Working on that basis the best part of my shop bought pesto may be grass clippings…..

The Best Basil Pesto.

This is my version of a classic Italian Pesto alla Genovese. Rather than been totally smooth I like my pesto to have some texture and show off the ingredients it made with.

If you’re a traditionalist this is a job for the mortar and pestle. If not, or if time is short use a small food processor. DON’T use a blender it will take all the character out of the pesto and emulsify the cheese into the oil.

A word on Parmesan Cheese.

For the cheese use a Parmesan or Pecorino as you prefer. I use Grana Padano Parmesan as I think it’s a waste to use good Reggiano in the sauce. Keep that for serving on the pasta or treating yourself with a glass of wine.

Parmesan rind
Parmesan rind

DON’T whatever you do buy the small tubs of ready grated cheese. You can get good pre-grated parmesan buy the stuff in the tubs smells like old socks. I have a theory relating the contents of the tubs. If you grate your own cheese, you will have noticed the thick skin that sits just under the thin rind. Grate a little of the skin and you will find it smells just like the cheap grated cheese. And personally, I think that’s what is in the tubs. Its Parmesan Jim, but not as I know it!

Rant over, let’s get going.

You will need.

Mortar and pestle or small food processor.

Chopping board and knife.

Small frying pan.

Fine grater.

Bowl scraper.

Small jar or ice cube tray for storage.

The Best Basil Pesto.

Makes about 300ml – 345g.

80g                  basil leaves – no stalks.

70g                  pine kernels.

40g                  grated parmesan cheese or pecorino if you prefer.

45g                  Parmesan cut into 4mm dice.

125ml              light fruity olive oil.

large pinch flaky sea salt.

2                      good cloves of garlic, 3 if they are small.

                        Extra sea salt and mill pepper as needed.

Heat a small frying pan over a medium heat. Add the pine kernels and toast them gently, keeping them moving all the time, turning from top to bottom. We only want to toast the pine kernels to a light golden brown. Its very easy to burn them so be careful. If you burn them, don’t use them. It’s a good idea to have some spare on hand just in case. Keep any leftovers in the freezer to keep them fresh until you need them. When the kernels are ready tip them onto a plate to cool down completely.

Crushing garlic in salt
Crushing garlic in salt

Peel the garlic and remove any green shoot from inside the clove. Add the sea salt to the garlic and crust to a smooth paste.

Adding pine kernels
Adding pine kernels

Place the garlic / salt paste into the mortar or processor and add 40g of the toasted kernels. Throw in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil and work to a smooth paste. Use a light olive oil, not a dense peppery one or it will mask the fresh flavours. DON’T as some chefs advocate use vegetable oil! They will argue that the vegetable oil allows the flavour of the basil to come through. Bull%**t, they are just trying to save money and increase their profits.

Adding basil leaves
Adding basil leaves

Add the basil leaves to the mix and break down to a paste adding more oil as needed. I only use the basil leaves to make the pesto. Some people will add the finer stalks to the mix, again to save money. The choice is up to you, but I find the stalks can cause the pesto to discolour.

I wouldn’t mind betting the stuff in the jars has the stalks included, and God knows what’s in the mix.

Adding Parmesan
Adding Parmesan

Now we have a nice green sauce add the grated parmesan and any remaining oil. Don’t overwork the mix, we don’t want the cheese to become emulsified into the oil.

Mixing in diced cheese and nuts
Mixing in diced cheese and nuts

Finally, stir in the diced cheese and reserved pine kernels, check your seasoning and your ready to go. Store the pesto in a narrow-mouthed jar with a layer of olive oil on top to keep the air out. It should be good for about a week in the fridge. To store it longer its best frozen, again ice cube trays are the most convenient method.

TIP,

If you don’t have a greenhouse or polytunnel to grow your Basil don’t worry. Buy two or three fresh plants in the supermarket. Keep then in the kitchen near a window and out of draughts. Water them regularly with some house plant food and they will triple in size. That will give you a steady supply of fresh basil, cheaper and fresher than buying it in packets.

For me this is a essential store cupboard staple. Never mind pasta, it’s a great accompaniment to vegetable dishes like my Courgette and Tomato Tarts. Brilliant with fish, and a spoonful of pesto transforms a simple mashed potato. Give it a try….

Enjoy Life!

John.

Hi, my name is John Webber, award winning chef and tutor, now retired to the west coast of Scotland. Welcome to our blog focusing on food, cooking, and countryside. My aim is to pass on my years of skills and knowledge together with an appreciation of the countryside.

Join us to experience the beauty of the west coast, cook some great food and be at ease in the kitchen.

If you enjoyed your visit with us, please subscribe up to our newsletter to receive regular updates of what’s new and upcoming at The Westcoaster. Subscribe Here

©John Webber. 2023

How to Make Blackberry Jelly, and why fruit jellies work.

How to Make Blackberry Jelly, and why fruit jellies work.

Want to know how to make Blackberry Jelly? It’s not that difficult, and so satisfying to make the best of the (free) autumn harvest. If your north of the border you will know this as Bramble Jelly. Whatever you call them it’s great fun collecting the fruit on a warm sunny afternoon.

When your collecting, expect a few war wounds from the spiky stems and keep away from the main roads. Stick to country lanes where the traffic is light. The berries won’t be covered in pollution from traffic and you’re less likely to be flattened by a passing lorry. Do be sure what you are gathering is edible. There are plenty of good books and websites to help you. The golden rule is if you’re not sure, don’t use it.

Gather with care and don’t strip a bush of fruit, take a few here and there and move on to the next bush. There will be plenty for all and remember that wildlife needs the autumn harvest more than you do.

Hedgerow Brambles
Hedgerow Brambles

Blackberry Jelly.

You will need.

Wide thick based pan.

Colander or sieve.

Heatproof spatula.

Saucer and / or probe thermometer.

Jam funnel.

Jelly bag or sheet of muslin cloth.

Measuring jug.

Sterilised jam jars and lids. Check out the food files page on how to do this.

Waxed paper jam covers.

Bramble Jelly, Ingredients
Bramble Jelly, Ingredients

Makes Roughly 600ml.

Stage 1.

750g                Blackberries

1                      Bramley cooking apple (roughly 200g)

225ml              water

1                      lemon

Stage 2.

Granulated or preserving sugar.

Why Jelly and not Jam?

Why go to all the trouble of straining all that fruit and then only using the juices. Why not just make jam? Well, you can, the classic recipe is equal weights of fruit and sugar cooked together with some water and lemon juice. Cook the fruit to 105˚c and transfer to jars just as we will do with the fruit juices.

So, what’s the problem? It’s those damn seeds. There are so many small hard seeds in the fruit that the jam almost becomes crunchy. You will be flossing the seeds out of your teeth for ages. And the texture of the seeds overtakes the flavour of the fruit.

To press or not to press.

Those of you that follow my ramblings will know I like to do things a little differently if I think it’s an improvement on the classic method or recipe. No change here. Recipes for fruit jellies will tell you to stew the fruit. Then hang the stewed fruits in a jelly bag or muslin overnight to let the juices drip though. Never press the fruit!

Well, I do. The above is fine is you want a nice clear jelly, and you have a fridge large enough to support a jelly bag and bowl. I don’t and I like to get the maximum flavour and yield from my efforts. The choice is up to you.

It’s all about the pectin.

Pectin is the key to a jam or jelly setting. Once the fruit has released its pectin and we have a specific density of sugar the two will react together and begin to gel. Adding a little acid (lemon juice) helps the reaction and gives the flavour a boost.

So where do we get pectin?

Well, some fruits are naturally high in pectin. These include Blackberries, Redcurrants, Quince, Tart Apples, Rowanberries, Lemons, Limes, and Cranberries.

Low pectin fruits include. Raspberries, Strawberries, Pears, Blueberries, Peaches, Apricots and Pineapple.

So how do we make a jam or jelly with a fruit that is low in pectin like strawberries? We simply add pectin. This can be done in different ways.

The simplest is to method is just to use jam sugar.

You can make a stock with a high pectin fruit like Redcurrants and add that to your fruit instead of water.

Pectin powder
Pectin powder

Or you buy Pectin Powder or liquid and add it in to the pan. Liquid can be added with the fruit to the pan. Powder should be mixed in with the sugar before its added to the fruit.

Know your sugar?

You will come across recipes that ask for granulated, jam, or preserving sugar, but what’s the difference?

Granulated Sugar is the basic for of refined sugar and a good economic choice for jams and jellies.

Castor Sugar is simply more finely ground sugar producing finer crystals. Normally used for pastry and deserts. Not recommended for jams and jellies as it contains an anti-caking agent to avoid lumps forming. This produced more foam and waste when cooked with fruits.

Preserving Sugar is a pure sugar with larger crystals. This dissolves a little slower than granulated sugar, reducing the chance of burning. The sugar also produced less foam while still allowing the impurities to rise to the top.

Jam Sugar is preserving sugar with added pectin. This is the easiest way of working with low pectin fruits. Don’t use it with high pectin fruits though, or you will end up with a fruit brick.

Know we know, so, let’s get on with it.

Have a probe thermometer on hand or place a couple of saucers in the freezer to get really cold. I do both.

Give the Blackberries a wash and drain well in a colander. Wash the apple and cut into rough dice about 1.5 cm across. Keep the skin on and include the pips. Tip the apple into the pan and add the fruit on top.

I like to add a little of the zest of the lemon as well as the juice to boost the citrus notes. Using a peeler slice off four strips of zest from the lemon then remove the juice.

Brambles ready for cooking
Brambles ready for cooking

Add the juice, zest and any pips liberated to the pan. Bring the pan to a simmer over a medium heat stirring from time to time. Pop on the lid and cook gently for twenty minutes.

I like to press the fruit lightly during cooking. A potato masher is ideal, just press lightly here and there, don’t overdo it and puree the fruit.

Draining the juices.

Staining the cooked fruit
Staining the cooked fruit

When the fruit is cooked set up your jelly bag or muslin over a suitable container to catch the juices. Ladle in some of the mixture and leave to drain. After about 10 minutes or so I give the mix a stir with a spoon then Lightly squeeze the bag to extract as much juice as possible.

When you are sure you have as much juices as possible empty the bag and repeat the process until all the mix is filtered.

Wash the pan and return the filtered juice to the pan measuring the volume as you do so.

For each 100ml of juices you will need 75g of sugar. I had 600ml of juice so used 450g of sugar.

The second cooking.

Re-boiling the strained juices
Re-boiling the strained juices

Bring the juice to the simmer then add the sugar. Stir to dissolve the sugar then turn up the heat to a fast simmer / gentle boil. Have your sterilised jars ready and turn on the oven to 100c.

Removing the cooking scum
Removing the cooking scum

As the juices simmer, a scum will be produced on the surface of the jelly. Use a small ladle or kitchen spoon to lift off the scum and discard. You may need to repeat this as the jelly cooks and reduced down

As the jelly cooks, water will evaporate, the flavour will be concentrated, and the sugar content will increase. When we reach the optimum sugar density, gelling will begin.

How do we know when we have reached setting point?

Testing for setting on a cold plate
Testing for setting on a cold plate

One way is to pour a little of the jelly onto a cold plate and as the jelly cools push a finger through it to see if it ripples up. If the jelly flows back together it’s not ready. If it ripples up to form a mound it’s ready to go into jars and be sealed.

Blackberry jelly, ready for testing
Blackberry jelly, ready for testing

This can mean quite a bit of messing about. Experienced jam makers can tell by the size of bubbles and how they move in the pan during cooking. Most of us however don’t make jams or jellies enough to be that familiar with the process.

Use a thermometer to insure setting.

The finished jelly temperature
The finished jelly temperature

I think the best and easiest method is to use a probe thermometer. As the contents of the pan become denser the boiling temperature increases. This means by knowing the boiling temperature of the liquid we know the density. Once the juices reach 105˚c your jam or jelly is ready.

You should get to 102˚c quite quickly but it can take an age to get up to 105˚c. Be patient, stopping the cooking too early means it won’t set correctly. As you get close to been ready pop your jars in the oven to warm up.

Bottling Blackberry Jelly
Bottling Blackberry Jelly

When ready, lift off any final scum that has formed and fill the warmed jars. Place a paper disc on the surface of the jelly and seal with the lid.

Let the jars cool then store in a cool dark place. Unopened it should last long enough to see you through to the next berry season.

Nothing beats homemade preserves. A couple of hours work will fill your cupboard with flavour it’s almost impossible to buy!

Enjoy Life!

John.

Hi, my name is John Webber, award winning chef and tutor, now retired to the west coast of Scotland. Welcome to our blog focusing on food, cooking, and countryside. My aim is to pass on my years of skills and knowledge together with an appreciation of the countryside.

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