How to make Hummus. It’s easy to make this classic middle eastern snack, better and fresher than the bought version. Its smooth healthy, and full of flavour. And once you have mastered the process there is a wealth of other flavours you can add to the basic mix.
Flavoured Butters are one of the easiest ways of putting flavour onto a dish. I simply can’t think of anything else you can that make that will transform your cooking so quickly and efficiently. Imagine a simple jacket potato lifted by adding cheesy bacon butter. Boring cooked rice given a punch with lime, ginger, chilli, and coriander butter. Or a grilled chicken breast topped with harissa flavoured butter, amazing!
Scottish Cullen Skink is one of my favourite dishes. It is a rich fish soup with leek and potatoes and its name originates from Cullen a small fishing village on the Northeast coast of Scotland. And the term ‘Skink is derived from the Gaelic for ‘essence’ a good description of the aroma of fishy peat smoke coming from the haddock.
You could serve this as a starter, but it’s a hearty soup more suited to a supper main course or Lunchtime treat. If you are in Appin and can’t, be bothered with all the cooking pop into The Pierhouse Hotel (at the pier) for a warming plate full of Skink.
To get the very best flavour from the dish look for pale, sometimes called peat smoked haddock. This is fish which has been cured and smoked in the traditional method. Try a good fishmonger to find it. In the supermarkets you are more likely to find its bright yellow cousin which has not had much if any time in the smoker. And has been coated in colour and flavour. If that’s all you can get, it will still work but will not as deeply be flavoured as the real thing. You will just have to travel to Scotland and experience real Skink.
750g skin on peat smoked haddock fillet, about 600g after trimming.
Take the smoked haddock and remove the skin (it should just pull off with a bit of persuasion) and any bones. Cut the fish into roughly 3cm chunks and set aside. Place the skin bones and any trimmings into a saucepan along with the rest of the ingredients. Bring to the boil then simmer gently for 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, cover and let stand for 1 hour. Pass the stock though a fine strainer and refrigerate until needed. This can be done the day before cooking the Skink.
Don’t be tempted to add salt at all until the very end of cooking and then only after tasting. The smoked haddock itself is salty, which should be enough for the whole dish.
Give the leek a rinse then cut into two longways. Open out the two halves and slice into strips about 1.5cm wide. Turn the strips around and then slice across to make squares of leek. Finely chop the shallot then slice the garlic into thin slices. Crushing the garlic would make it too strong in the dish.
Add the butter to the saucepan and place over a low heat. When the butter has melted, add the leek, shallots, and garlic. Notice we are not using any onion in this recipe. Onions contain too much sugar and will put a sweet tone into the skink, that we want to avoid. Cook the vegetables for about five minutes and while they are cooking, deal with the potatoes.
Cut the potato into chips with about 1.5cm sides. Slice the chips across approximately 3mm thick to produce little square slices of potato.
Add the potatoes to the pan followed by the stock milk and cream. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook for 6-8 minutes then add the fish.
Return the pan to the simmer and cook for another 6 minutes stirring occasionally. Don’t worry is the fish and potatoes break up a little, that will thicken the Skink. Add two or three turns of the peppermill and taste.
Serve in deep wide plates scattered with chopped chives and plenty of crusty bread to soak up the juices.
Enjoy Life!
John.
Hi, my name is John Webber, award winning chef and tutor, now retired to the west coast of Scotland. Welcome to our blog focusing on food, cooking, and countryside. My aim is to pass on my years of skills and knowledge together with an appreciation of the countryside.
Join us to experience the beauty of the west coast, cook some great food and be at ease in the kitchen.
Join The ‘Westcoaster Newsletter.
Sign up to our newsletter to receive regular updates of what’s new and upcoming at ‘The Westcoaster.’
© Copywrite, John Webber. 2024
How to Become a Garlic Expert, every time you cook is often a mystery to the British. While other cultures across the world utilise garlic in many forms, we simply push a clove of garlic into a crude metal press and squeeze the life out of the clove into whatever we think will benefit from a hit of flavour. Leaning how to use garlic properly will open up avenue in your cooking.
One of life’s guilty pleasures has to be a bowl of hot mashed potato. And it is one of the most versatile products that we can use to create a great plate of food. They can be used to form a foundation for the presentation, provide a contrasting texture on the plate, and become ‘a vehicle of flavour’. That is, they become a method of adding a complimentary flavour to a plate. Such as horseradish mash with beef, or saffron mash with fish. In a similar way, they can absorb flavour on a plate such as the gravy of a stew or braise.
Braised Oxtail is my idea of heaven on a cold winter’s day. So, with the frost on the ground and minus five on the thermometer I decided the time was right to get cooking.
For me Braised Oxtail is the pinnacle of meat eating. Its not difficult to cook, but it does take a little time. If the idea of having the oven on for such a long cook, use a slow cooker to do most of the cooking. That leaves only the start and finishing to be done on the hob.
If you like meat, have a look at our Food Files page on British Beef Cuts for more exiting cut and joints to try.
Peel the shallots been careful not to remove the root. Remove the carrots tops then lightly scrape the skin. Peel the swede and celeriac and cut into 1.5cm cubes allowing roughly three per person. I used a melon baller on the swede just to improve the presentation.
Oxtail has such a meaty flavour it benefits from using lots of vegetables. To help things along we gently cook the finishing vegetables in the beef stock first, so all their flavour compliments the finished sauce.
Cook the vegetables in the stock until just tender, then strain keeping the stock. The sage leaves and parsley will be used later. Put the vegetables to one side for later use.
This is an old but very convenient method of using herbs on the stem in a liquid and removing them without difficulty.
You will need a length of cotton butchers’ twine, DON’T use nylon string as it will affect the flavour of the sauce. You need two short lengths of celery, an outer leaf of leek cut the same length as the celery and the herbs you are using. For us its thyme and bay leaf.
Place the herbs into the depression in a stick of celery, then place the second stick of celery on top. Wrap this parcel using the leek then tie the whole thing together with the string.
Chefs often leave a long piece of string on the bouquet garni after tying. This can be left hanging or tied to the lid and make removal of the herbs easy.
Peel the carrots for the braise and roughly cut into 3cm sections. Repeat that for the onions and give the garlic a bash to bruise it, but don’t peel it.
Put a large heavy casserole on to a high heat, and when hot add the oil into the pan and brown the oxtail on all sides. You may need to do this in two stages. When browned all over lift each section out onto a plate and when all the meat is browned add the vegetables without the garlic to the pan and brown well without burning. Tip the contents of the pan into a colander to allow any excess fat to drain off. Once drained return the vegetables to the pan and place back on the heat.
Now it’s time to add the tomato puree. To get the best flavour for the puree and take away the raw taste we need to caramelise it. As the vegetables are frying, add the puree and mix into the vegetables. Keep stirring the pan keeping the red wine ready at hand and once the tomato puree and browned slightly add the wine. Remember, there is a difference between caramel and carbon!
Tip the wine into the hot pan scraping the base of the pan with the spatula to lift the caramelised juices into the wine.
Add the stock the vegetables were cooked in and bring to the simmer. Add the bruised garlic, passata, and bouquet garni. Return the oxtail to the pan along with and juices sitting on the plate and return to the simmer.
You can now transfer the braise to a pre-heated slow cooker to cook for about 5 hours Alternatively over the surface of the meat firstly with a disc of paper then place a tight-fitting lid on the casserole and cook in the oven at 140-150c for roughly three hours.
When the oxtail is cooked the meat should be tender and almost falling off the bone. When ready remove from the heat and let the contents cool a little.
Carefully lift the joints of meat out of the sauce then strain the liquid through a fine strainer, lightly pressing the vegetable to get every last drop of juices into the sauce. Discard the vegetables and leave the sauce to stand for 10 minutes.
Using a small ladle carful skim off any fat sitting on the surface of the sauce. If you don’t have a ladle small enough an old tablespoon bent at 90˚ works well.
Give the pan a wipe out with kitchen paper, then return the sauce to the pan and bring back to the simmer. Let the sauce reduce in volume to thicken tasting as you go. The tomato puree and passata will provide some natural thickening. If you need to thicken the sauce, further use a little diluted arrowroot. DON’T use cornflour, it will spoil the clarity and gloss of the sauce.
When you are happy with the taste and consistency of the sauce return the meat to the pan and keep warm.
Are struggling with a sauce or stock that has meat fat on it like a roast or braise?
Drop a couple of large ice cubes into the liquid. They need to be well above the level of the liquid so it may help to pour the liquid into a tray before adding the ice.
As you move the ice around the tray the fat will set and adhere to the ice, which can then be removed easily. Yes, a little water will dissolve into the sauce, but this is easily evaporated later by simmering.
Heat a shallow pan and add 3 tbsp of olive oil and heat. Carefully fry the sage leaves in the oil, they will sizzle and bubble, becoming crisp. When crisp, lift each leaf out of the pan and drain on kitchen paper.
When all the leaves are fried remove 80% of the remaining oil from the pan. Take the finishing vegetables, and but the shallots in half longways through the root. Add the vegetable sot the hot pan and roast them in the hot sage oil.
When the vegetables are a nice golden-brown lift them out of the pan onto kitchen paper to drain well.
Take your serving dish and using a pair of tongs, lift the sections of hot oxtail on to the dish.
Strain the sauce one last time, then pour the finished sauce over the joints. Arrange the finishing vegetables around the meat and add the sage leaves. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley and serve with mashed potato and green vegetables. Make sure to check out our post on How to make Perfect Mashed Potatoes to get the very best partner to your oxtail.
Enjoy life!
John.
Hi, my name is John Webber, award winning chef and tutor, now retired to the west coast of Scotland. Welcome to our blog focusing on food, cooking, and countryside. My aim is to pass on my years of skills and knowledge together with an appreciation of the countryside.
Join us to experience the beauty of the west coast, cook some great food and be at ease in the kitchen.
Join The ‘Westcoaster Newsletter.
Sign up to our newsletter to receive regular updates of what’s new and upcoming at ‘The Westcoaster.’
© Copywrite, John Webber. 2024
These Italian delicate almond cookies with a melt in the mouth centre are usually enjoyed during Christmas time in Tuscany. Try them out as an alternative to or in addition to mince pies when entertaining guest over the holiday.
This simple Duck Confit is both rustic and refined. The process of curing and cooking the meat in fat produces a flavour unobtainable buy any other method. And I love it! I’m serving the confit with a Lentil, Bacon, and Chestnuts Stew, a great winter warmer.
These Irresistible Chocolate Custard Cookies are so easy to make. Which is a good job as they don’t last long when people start tucking in. They are great just served as a cookie, adults and children both love them. Alternatively serve alongside a dessert that needs some added texture such as a Crème Brûlee. The dough can be kept in the freezer ready to bake as a useful standby when needed.
Make sure your butter is at room temperature and soft enough to spread. Place the butter and sugar into a mixing bowl or food mixer then cream the two together until the mixture becomes light and creamy, (about 3-4 minutes).
Using a spatula fold the chocolate drops and vanilla into the mix. When combined sieve the flour and custard powder together into the butter/sugar mixture. Don’t beat the flour in just gently fold together.
When the flour is incorporated add the ready to eat custard, again folding gently.
Break off a sheet of greaseproof paper roughly the size of an A4 sheet of paper. Turn the paper landscape format then spoon half of the dough just above the bottom edge. Using the pallet knife form the dough into a sausage of about 4cm in diameter.
Roll the bottom of the paper up and over the dough, tightening the wrap as you go. Twist the ends of the paper to resemble a Christmas cracker then repeat the process with the second half of the dough.
The dough now needs to go into the fridge for at least half an hour or can be frozen for later use.
To cook, take the dough from the fridge and unwrap. Slice the dough across into discs 6mm thick. Place the biscuits onto baking paper and cook in a 175°c oven for 10 to 12 minutes.
When cooked the biscuits should be golden and still be moist inside. Let the cookies stand for 5 minutes then place on a cooling wire and let them cool completely. Store the cookies you haven’t already eaten in an airtight tin for up to four days.
Enjoy Life!
John.
Hi, my name is John Webber, award winning chef and tutor, now retired to the west coast of Scotland. Welcome to our blog focusing on food, cooking, and countryside. My aim is to pass on my years of skills and knowledge together with an appreciation of the countryside.
Join us to experience the beauty of the west coast, cook some great food and be at ease in the kitchen.
If you enjoyed your visit with us, please subscribe up to our newsletter to receive regular updates of what’s new and upcoming at The Westcoaster. Subscribe Here
©John Webber. 2023
If you are a lover of long cool drinks, then this is for you. They are easy to make and all you really need is some space to store the gin while it is steeping and the patience not to get stuck in too quickly. I always fill hold of some 250ml bottles to use as Christmas presents, always welcome gifts.
Astonishing salt, no other ingredient I know has had a greater effect on cooking and the kitchen. We need it to live, but an excess is bad for us and may even kill us!
So why do we have a love affair with it? And what does it actually do? Read on and I’ll do my best to explain.
Learning How to Make Your Own Pork Sausages at Home is great fun. Sausages are one of the most flexible foods we have available to us. Whether it’s a comforting plate of bangers and mash, fending off the cold weather. A quick buttered sausage roll as a snack, or the compulsory BBQ sausage, it’s a year – round, go to treat.
Most people will have a favourite sausage, British or continental. I’ve lost track on how many different types and flavours are available to us today. However, variety is one thing, quality is another, so read on!
Well apart from any flavourings you want to add, Meat! The problem can be deciding on what is meat. Meat in its natural form has fat, and fat is important to the eating quality of our sausage. Just enough will provide flavour and moisture. Too much and a greasy feel will be left in the mouth. Too little and the sausage will be dry and tough.
Fat also adds flavour. In fact, it adds flavour to most things. As the fat dissolves on your tongue, it transmits the flavour of your food to the tastebuds. This enhances the experience of eating the food and something we are hard-wired into enjoying.
Whatever meat you are using Beef, Pork, lamb, Venison etc the fat is important. For beef sausages suet fat is ideal. For all the others I would stick to pork fat.
Don’t be afraid of fat but do control it. Perhaps one rainy afternoon ill draft out a Food Files page on fats to help everybody understand how they work.
There is one rule I like to apply here. Never Trust a Straight Sausage!
There are basically two main types of casing, natural and synthetic.
Natural casings are from the intestines of animals. They will be irregular in diameter according to how far down the gut then are obtained from. This provides sized from a chipolata right up to a salami size. The animal they are taken from will dictate the thickness and strength of the casing. Pork casings are relatively strong and a good size for most uses. lamb casing are more fragile and are smaller in diameter.
Commonly the casings are preserved in salt and need to be soaked and washed before filling. If your local butcher makes their own sausages, they can help you or have a look online. As you will know the intestines are coiled around inside the carcase. This gives the sausage its curved appearance. A sure sign it’s a natural sausage.
Synthetic casings for edible sausages are manufactured from animal collagen. Personally, I don’t like the feel of them in the mouth. Some smoked and cured sausages intended as charcutier have plastic cases which are not edible.
If all else fails, you can from the meat into patties coat them in four and fry. To go one stage further egg and breadcrumb the patties. Cook slowly in butter so the meat cooks though without the coating burning.
You don’t need fancy, expensive equipment to make your own sausages. A tabletop hand mincer is fine (although hard work) and I filled my first sausages using a cut off plastic funnel and piping bag.
A mincer attachment for your food mixer is a good choice. If you really get into it a small electric mincer can be bought for not too much money.
The key thing is to ensure the blade is sharp and you have the right size of mincer plate fitted.
It’s best not to use frozen meat if you can as it doesn’t bind together as well as fresh, Cut the meat and fat into cubes no larger than 2cm and keep the meat in the fridge before mincing.
Chefs will often put the mincer in the fridge or freezer before use to stop the meat from heating up due to friction in the mincer. This also helps with the shelf life of the sausages’.
Its not a bad idea to fry a small patty of the filling before filling the casings. This allows you to check the seasoning before committing to moving on to the filling stage.
Put the mustard seeds in a small dish and pour over the white wine. Cover and leave overnight for the seeds to soften.
Pour the milk onto a small bowl and add the bread. Leave to soak for five minutes.
Take the meats and remove any sinew. Cut the meats and fat into roughly 2cm cubes and mix together in a bowl.
Lift the bread from the milk and squeeze out the excess liquid to form a wet ball. Add the bread to the meat and discard the milk.
Add the mustard seeds and wine together with the rest of the seasonings and mix well.
Fit a 6mm sized plate to the mincer then pass all the mixture through the mincer back into the bowl.
Return half of the mix to the mincer and re-mince once more back into the bowl.
Take a sturdy spoon and begin the mix the coarse and fine mixtures together. Don’t be afraid to give the mixture a good basing about as this helps the meats bind together.
Butchers commonly add water into the filling while mixing. This arguably adds moisture to the filling making the sausage juicer. Ever noticed all that gunk coming out of shop-bought sausages as you cook them? And I’m sure all that free weight helps with the profits. If you do want to try for a moister filling just add two or three tablespoons of water in as you beat the mix.
That it! You’re all ready to go to the filling stage.
Take some of the casings out of the container and shake off any excess salt. Wash the casings under running water for a moment then place in a bowl of cold water to soak for twenty minutes.
To fill the sausage casings with a piping bag, spoon the sausage meat into a large piping bag fitted with the widest plain plastic nozzle. I have used the cut off tube of a plastic funnel in the past, with some success.
Rinse the casings in cold water and roll the open end over the nozzle, like putting on a stocking! Hold the first 2 inches of the casing closed and squeeze the filling into the casing to form the first sausage, easing the casing from the nozzle as it fills. Stop when the sausage is big enough and twist gently before filling the next one. Tie the loose end of the casing on the first sausage. Continue until all the filling is used up. If you like, tie the sausages at intervals between the links with fine string then cut into individual sausages.
If you are lucky enough to have a sausage filling attachment for your mincer it’s the same idea. Roll the washed casing onto the filling tube Then load the hopper with the sausage meat. Pull about 8cm of casing down the tube so it’s hanging off the end then slowly start the mincer until the filling appears at the end of the tube.
Stop the mincer then tie off the loose casing tight to the filling. This method will stop air been forced into the casing as the filling begins. Restart the mincer slowly keeping a steady flow of filling coming down the tube been careful not to over fill the casing. A little slack on the skins if fine. Stop filling well before the casing runs out as you will need spare casing available to form the sausages.
Decide how long you want your sausages to be, then starting at the knotted end pinch the casing at the desired length to force the meat back down the casing then twist the casing together to form a seal. Again, just as when we filed the sausages make sure the casing is not too stretched or it may break when cooked. Keep going until you have formed all the sausages and repeat the process until all the filling is used.
There will still be an amount of good meat trapped in the body of the mincer. To avoid wasting this put a slice of bread through the mincer at the end and the meat will be pushed through. Any bread can be pushed back out of the casing before the sausages are formed.
You can also obtain a sausage press which resembles a big syringe clamped to the table. You simply fill the body of the press with the sausage meat. Clamp on the front and proceed as described above.
If you are using a hand powered mincer or a press a second pair of hands is great help. Otherwise, it’s difficult to control the sausage casing and work the press/mincer at the same time.
The purpose of the sausage casings is not just to make a pleasing shape but also to holds in moisture. If you prick your sausages the moisture will escape leaving you with a dry shrivelled up result.
If you’re having problems with the sausages bursting. It’s possible you have over filled the casings putting too much stress on the skin. The most common cause of bursting is simply cooking too quickly.
Whether you’re grilling, frying, or barbequing your sausages the process is the same.
Take the sausages out of the fridge before cooking to let them warm a little. Start the cooking briefly over a highish heat to set the skins then reduce the heat until cooked through. If you’re not happy with the colour a quick blast over a higher heat will do the trick.
It takes time for the heat to penetrate through the meat. Unlike a steak the surface won’t caramelise and gain flavour. It just burns, think of the classic BBQ burnt sausages and you will know what I mean.
If you’re grilling or barbequing rub the skins with a little oil before cooking.
Some varieties of sausage are gently poached, then stored prior to grilling. But for our home-made sausage grill or fry directly from raw.
As sausages are a processed meat, they must be cooked all the way though before eating. I always recommend a probe thermometer when cooking. Ensure the centre of the sausage has reached 73ºc to be certain they are cooked.
One of the big differences between shop bought and home made is the lack of preservatives.
Use the freshest meat possible and don’t leave it hanging around at room temperature. Keep your equipment as cool as possible and wear disposable gloves when handling meat.
I would aim to use my fresh sausages on the day or the day after making. If that’s a problem, freeze the sausages as soon as they are made. Its best to freeze them separated on a paper lined tray, then transfer them to a bag when solid.
They should keep up to three months in a good freezer. But make sure they are thoroughly defrosted before cooking.
While I wouldn’t say definitely not, its not ideal. The mincer is not a violent as the processer and breaks the tissues down better. If a processer is your only possibility process the meat in small batches using the pulse control. Don’t overdo it remember the meat is meant to be chopped not pureed. The sharper the blade the better to result.
Curing Salt is also known as Prague Powder, or Pink Salt by butchers. It is a salt used to cure meats while help preserve them and prevent the meat from turning brown. Sodium Nitrate is added to the salt and given a pink colour to identify it from normal salts.
Curing salt is used in the manufacture of hams, bacon and sausages. A variation of curing salt is used in dried meats like Salami.
You can find the casings available online. However, if you want the fillings can be formed into sausage shapes using wet hands. Chill the shapes in the fridge to firm them up then coat then in flour, egg, and dry breadcrumbs. Fry the sausages gently in butter, insuring they are cooked through.
Enjoy Life!
John.
Hi, my name is John Webber, award winning chef and tutor, now retired to the west coast of Scotland. Welcome to our blog focusing on food, cooking, and countryside. My aim is to pass on my years of skills and knowledge together with an appreciation of the countryside.
Join us to experience the beauty of the west coast, cook some great food and be at ease in the kitchen.
If you enjoyed your visit with us, please subscribe up to our newsletter to receive regular updates of what’s new and upcoming at The Westcoaster. Subscribe Here
©John Webber. 2023
Learn how to sharpen your kitchen knives, and keep them sharp in this definitive guide. Part 1, using a whetstone.
Christmas is really a once-a-year dinner party. And this is my guide to having a Successful Christmas Dinner, without all the stress.
