The Isle of Lismore, a serene 10-mile long island in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, offers rich wildlife and history. With a small population of about 170, it remains largely untouched by tourism. Accessible by ferry, visitors can explore various scenic routes and historical sites, including the Lismore Gaelic Heritage Centre and Achanduin Castle.
The Isle of Kerrera, a quaint island near Oban, boasts the shortest ferry crossing in Scotland. With only about 70 residents, it is a popular summer destination. Attractions include Gylen Castle, the Waypoint restaurant, and Ardentrive Farm. Visitors can enjoy scenic walks, local produce, and refreshments at the Tea Garden.
I’m continuing our journey across Mull and our next stop is the Isle of Iona an absolute jewel of the west coast. The island is mainly known for being the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland and where Macbeth, King of Scotland was buried at Iona Abbey but it has so much more to offer.
I don’t know if you’re like me , but every now and again a place inexplicitly moves you. For me the isle of Iona is one of those places.
I’m not particularly religious but the Isle of Iona has an aura it’s difficult to define. It’s tiny in size but enormous in its influence across the world. A special place of beauty, history, and calm. The island is only 3 long by 1.5 miles wide with beautiful shell sand beaches and intense blue green water.
If you haven already done so look up our previous blog – The Isle of Mull, Enchanting Scenery, and Stunning Wildlife. Which takes you through our trip from Oban and across Mull to Bunessan.
From Bunessan we take a short dive to Fionnphort where we will leave the car. The island can only be accessed by a short ferry journey from the terminal at Fionnphort. There is plenty of car parking close to the terminal which is lucky as the only local residents’ cars are allowed on the island.
If you enjoy walking its easy to cover the entire island or take a bike over with you. Most people’s first stop will be a visit to the Abbey. But the island has an exceptional, unspoiled habitat benefiting both wildlife and humans.
The Abbey is the focal point of the Island. Whether you are religious or not it’s a must see while on Iona. Its easy to spend a whole afternoon walking knee deep in history and enjoying the tranquillity of it all.
Iona Abbey was founded by St Columba in 563, and some remains of the old buildings can still be found. Saint Aidan was a monk at Iona went on to establish the monastery on Lindisfarne in Northumberland.
The Iona Cathedral Trust, began restoration of the Abbey in the early 20th century This was carried on by the Iona Community an ecumenical order who to this day continue to use the Abbey as a place worship. Historic Environment Scotland now look after the buildings which can be visited by booking on online. The island gets quite busy in the summer months, so I would advise advanced booking.
The habitat is home to Sea Eagles, Sand Pipers, Hen Harriers and some Corncrakes. Around the coastline expect to see Otters and offshore Minke Whales, Dolphins, and Porpoises can be spotted.
Visiting some of Iona’s the incredible beaches is a must during your visit. ,We walked past the Abbey to the end of the lane then across fields until you arrive at White Strand Beach, and then on to North End Beach. You will the greeted with beautiful white sand, and amazing views, a great place for a picnic.
If you have more time on the island try St Columba’s Bay,. It’s a fair walk south of the ferry, through theMachair then past the loch and down to the bay. Also worth a visit are Port Bàn, and the Bay at the Back of the Ocean.
You don’t need to limit yourself just to the Island Iona. There are tours which will ferry you out on a day trip to see more stunning places. The Treshnish Isles are a must if you are interested in wildlife. They are home to thousands of Puffins, Seals, Guillemots, Razorbill, Shag and many other sea birds. We took a wildlife tour with Staffa Tours which took us to the Isle of Lunga and the Isle of Staffa. The tours leave from Iona and Fionnphort ,There are also other tour providers that can take you on wildlife tours from Tobermory, Ulva Ferry and Oban.
Lunga is home to the puffins, the comical bird everybody loves. The birds are not shy of humans and will come within a few feet of you. Great for getting good photographs. The best time to go is from mid-April to early August.
Even if you have never been to Scotland is probable that you know of the geological wonder of Staffa The basalt columns and Fingal’s cave have amazed and inspired people for centuries. The cathedral like cave inspired Menhollsen to compose an overture after his visit to the incredible Isle. You can also see the Puffins on the Island if you are spending time on the island.
Visiting Iona and the islands close by is an experience not to be missed. I guarantee you will not be disappointed. It can get very busy with visitors in the high summer months. My advice is to go slightly earlier or later to enjoy the tranquillity of the island.
Enjoy Life!
John.
Hi, my name is John Webber, award winning chef and tutor, now retired to the west coast of Scotland. Welcome to our blog focusing on food, cooking, and countryside. My aim is to pass on my years of skills and knowledge together with an appreciation of the countryside.
Join us to experience the beauty of the west coast, cook some great food and be at ease in the kitchen.
If you enjoyed your visit with us, please subscribe up to our newsletter to receive regular updates of what’s new and upcoming at The Westcoaster. Subscribe Here
©John Webber. 2023
If you are traveling to the west coast of Scotland don’t miss the chance of taking a trip over to the Isle of Mull. it’s the second largest island of the Inner Hebrides and easy to get to That makes it an ideal location for a few days of exploration or just relaxation. Very few places in Britain can complete with its combination of dramatic scenery, fantastic beaches and stunning wildlife.
Discovering Appin, a haven of peace and magic. If you’re taking a stay in Oban, take advantage of the wealth of places to visit just a short dive out of town.
Discovering Oban, the gateway to the isles. This jewel of the west coast is a must for anybody traveling the west of Scotland. There is a resident population of about 8500 which almost doubles in the height of the holiday season. So, if you’re visiting, book well ahead. If you’re taking a ferry on to the islands, why not take an extra day to explore the town.
Oban, which takes its name from the Gaelic for ‘Little Bay’ is a hub for the island of the Inner Hebrides. Oban’s south pier is the starting point for ferries to Mull, Coll, Colonsay, Tiree, Barra, Islay, Jura and Lismore.
The railway station is on the pier with only a short walk to the ferries. This means you can travel direct from Glasgow to the Inner Hebrides without the need of a car. If you prefer to drive it’s just over 2 ¼ hrs from Glasgow with stunning scenery on route. If you have time take the longer route through Glencoe. Take in the grandeur of the mountains made famous by the ‘James Bond’ movie ‘Skyfall’.
It’s a short half mile hop over to the island of Kerrera. Take the passenger ferry found on the southern edge of the town. This takes you to the middle of the island and forms the start and finish of a 10km walking circuit. Be sure to visit magnificent Gylen Castle, perched high on old sea stacks at the south end of the island.
The town is known as the capital of the West Highlands – the “Gateway to the Isles”. Recently is has also taken the title of The Seafood Capital of Scotland”. If you are a seafood lover, take a walk to the south pier.
Just before the ferry terminal you will discover the seafood hut, known as “The Green Shack”. An unimposing building that serves some of the best seafood in Scotland. Watch as fishermen unload their catch at the pier and struggle with laden boxes of crab and lobster. Local mussels and oysters are also on the menu and my personal treat if out shopping, the crab sandwich. A wedge of bread stuffed with crab which at the time of writing is just over a fiver.
Don’t expect five-star service, just listen out for your order to be called out. No cutlery, it’s on the end of your hands. And no individual tables, just a covered area with tables to support your platter as you get tucked in.
Now you have refreshed your hunger, time to refresh the soul.
From the south pier take a walk down the bay past the shops. As the road curves around to the north pier the Oban Distillery can be found on the right. Producing an outstanding single malt whisky, it’s well worth a visit. And of course, a wee dram to wash down the seafood would only be polite seeing as your there.
The distillery was founded in 1794. Before which, Oban was a shadow of the town it is today, with slate, wool and shipbuilding been the main industries. The whisky production was shipped out to larger ports such as Liverpool and Glasgow. This began the towns rapid expansion. Now of course tourism is the town’s main source of income.
From the distillery it’s a short walk to the North Pier where you will find restaurants and public toilets. Before you enter the pier, glance back towards the distillery and you will see the imposing McCaig’s Tower on battery hill. If you are (very) fit this can be reached by a set of steps called Jacob’s ladder. But car parking is also available close to the tower.
Also known as McCaigs Folly the tower was built by John Stuart McCaig. It has no military connections but was built as a monument to his family. And to provide work for local stonemasons. The original plans had a central tower to contain a art gallery. But on McCraig’s death the family stopped building leaving only the circular walls. The tower now contains gardens and provides spectacular views of Oban and Kerrera across the bay.
Continue around the pier (where parking is available) and come to the marina. Home to a multitude of craft in the summer season. And where you can watch the ferries pass by and see occasional cruise liners waiting for passengers to return.
Continue around the pier (where parking is available) and come to the marina. Home to a multitude of craft in the summer season. And where you can watch the ferries pass by and see occasional cruise liners waiting for passengers to return.
Return back, to the road and after a few steps the Oban War and Peace Museum will be found. The Museum contains a collection of artefacts and photographs depicting the rich cultural history of Oban. You can learn about the fishing and maritime industries, the railway, road transport and local sports.
If you have parked the car at the North Pier why not take a small trip to Dunollie Castle Oban’s oldest building.
Follow the shore road around for five minutes and you find signs to the castle standing guard over the bay. One of eight Clan Macdougall castles allowing them to rule much or Argyll in the 12th century.
The castle and grounds have fantastic views a peaceful contrast to the town centre. Within the grounds Dunollie house contains the Hope MacDougall collection. A historic archive of Scottish life. And if you’re feeling a bit parched after all this a tea room in the grounds awaits you.
Needing more refreshment? Hop back into the car and make your way further down the bay road. At the end of the road, you will find Ganavan Sands. A beach with views across to Mull and Lismore. Plenty of parking, more toilets if you’re in need and with luck and ice cream van.
Take a dip or just cool off your feet after all that walking.
If you’re staying in Oban for a while its worth having a look at what else the area has to offer.
Head north from Oban stopping off to visit Dunstaffnage Castle. Also make a point of visiting and the new Ocean Explore centre at Scottish Association of Marine Science at Dunbeg. Just a few miles from the town centre. Continue north to Connel and cross the iconic former railway bridge. This straddles the Falls of Lora with its spectacular tidal whirlpools. There are often kayakers to be spotted in the surf below. Look up and you may see paragliders from nearby Oban Airport. . The airport has scenic plane trips available on Hebridean Airways. These fly out to Coll and Colonsay and land on a cockleshell beach runway.
Worth a diversion from the main Oban to Fort William road is the tiny hamlet of Port Appin. Home base of “The Westcoaster”. The village has a passenger ferry with direct access to the Isle of Lismore and a great restaurants. The Pierhouse Hotel & Restaurant, with rooms directly overlooking Loch Linnhe. And The Airds Hotel both offer great food and great views across to the lighthouse and Sheep island.
So, If I have encouraged you to sample the west coast of Scotland, Oban makes a great base from which to explore. I’ll keep my eyes open for you!
Enjoy Life!
John.
Hi, my name is John Webber, award winning chef and tutor, now retired to the west coast of Scotland. Welcome to our blog focusing on food, cooking, and countryside. My aim is to pass on my years of skills and knowledge together with an appreciation of the countryside.
Join us to experience the beauty of the west coast, cook some great food and be at ease in the kitchen.
If you enjoyed your visit with us, please subscribe up to our newsletter to receive regular updates of what’s new and upcoming at The Westcoaster. Subscribe Here
©John Webber. 2023
Hi, welcome to ‘The Westcoaster’ our food and lifestyle blog by John Webber. Our mission is simple – one to excite and encourage people to produce good fresh food. Secondly to promote the virtues of costal countryside living,