The Isle of Mull, Enchanting Scenery, and Stunning Wildlife.

Part One, The Ross of Mull. Craignuire to Bunessan.

If you are traveling to the west coast of Scotland don’t miss the chance of taking a trip over to the Isle of Mull. It’s the second largest island of the Inner Hebrides and easy to get to. That makes it an ideal location for a few days of exploration or just relaxation. Very few places in Britain can complete with Mull, in its combination of dramatic scenery, fantastic beaches and stunning wildlife.

Getting Started.

There is so much to see on the Isle of Mull it’s too much for one blog so for this episode I’m taking the south westerly route down to Bunessan. This is on the Ross of Mull peninsula, a finger of land  jutting out to the southwest of the island. I’m taking the car over on the ferry from Oban to Crainuire, then heading southwest.

For part two of this guide we will travel on to Fionnphort and across to the Isle of Iona.

Getting to Mull.

The Ferries.

There are three ferry routes available to the island making it convenient to get to.

Oban to Craignuire.

The main route is from Oban to Craignure on the southwest of the island. This takes about 45 minutes and is the largest boat so best in poor weather. If you’re going over by car, I think this is the best route. You can also have the piece of mind of been able to reserve a booking on this service

Craignure Timetable

Kilchoan to Tobermory.

The ferry from Kilchoan takes you right into Tobermory the main town of the island in 35minutes. 

Kilchoan is on the Ardnamurchan, peninsula near to the Sound of Mull. This makes it an ideal route to the island if you are taking in the grandeur of Ardnamurchan or traveling down from Mallaig or Arisaig. No booking  required here just turn up and wait your turn.

Tobermory Timetable

Lochaline to Fishnish.

Our final route runs from Lochaline to Fishnish, and is the shortest crossing at about 15 minutes.

If you don’t like boats, or are traveling from Glencoe or Fort William this is well worth considering. But bear in mind you also need to take a short hop on the Corran ferry at Onich to avoid a long drive around loch Linnie. As above there is no advance booking on this route.

 Fishnish Timetable

By Train, or Foot.

Its possible to travel to mull by train as a foot passenger on the Oban ferry. The train service from Glasgow takes about 3 hours and drops you off right at the pier with just a short walk to the ferry terminal. Once docked at Craignure, you can take the 495 bus to take you to Tobermory. Or the 496 service to Fionnphort. Bus timetables available HERE.

Driving on Mull.

Some of the roads on the west coast can be a bit daunting at first. A lot of the roads on Mull are single track with passing places. Most of the time it’s not a problem, just follow a few simple rules.

When the passing place is on your left, pull in to allow approaching traffic to pass. Passing places are shown by a signed pole so you can see them well ahead. If the passing place is on your right let the other vehicle pull in. Don’t swing over to the right-hand side.

Be prepared to reverse if the passing place is behind you. Its amazing how many people can’t or won’t reverse.

Do let traffic pass you if you want to slow down and take in the scenery.

And finally, don’t park in the passing place and cause a traffic jam!

Arriving on the Isle of Mull.

We’re heading to Bunessan at the western end of the island where we will spend a few days exploring the area and going over to Iona.

On leaving the ferry at Craignure take a left on to the A 849, after a short time you will see signs for Duart Castle which sits on the coastline and is well worth a visit.

Duart Castle.

Duart Castle, is the 700-year-old home of the Clan MacLean. It sits on the  headland as you sail into Craignure Bay where it guarded the straights. The castle has been the site of many battles. And has even been a prison for sailors of the Spanish Armada when their  ship was wrecked near Tobermory.

Make a little time before you leave the island to look around the castle and its views across to the mainland.

Back on the road to Bunessan.

After about 10 miles you will come across the Three Lochs Viewpoint. It worth pausing a while here to take in the view, if it’s not raining! And see, well as you might expect, three lochs, Loch an Eilein, Loch an Ellen and Loch Airde Glais. This is also a great place to see Golden Eagles.

3 miles further down the road and you come to Stone head. This is a head shaped rock perched upright on the hillside. Look hard enough and you can almost see a face in the rock.

Shortly after stone head you come to Loch Beg with an attractive small bridge, and a turning to your right-hand side.

But for the moment we are staying on the A849 for the last 10 miles aiming for the village of Bunessan. This is a good base from which to explore this end of the island. There is plenty of accommodation in the area with shops and eateries available. From here we will travel on to Fionnphort and then take the ferry across to the beautiful Isle of Iona.

Worthy Detours.

Loch Beg.

The small road on the right at Loch Beg is the B8035. A single-track road that skirts the islands west side and will eventually lead you back to Salen just north of Craignure. This small road is well worth a detour if you’re not in a hurry or making a point of exploring later in your visit to the island.

Just seven miles down the road you will find the Allt Chreaga Dubha Waterfall worth a stop with the camera if there has been a lot of rainfall.

Journey a short distance onward and you will find signs for Mackinnons cave, which is definitely worth a visit.

Mackinnon’s Cave.

Steeped in myth and magic the cave is a short walk over muddy ground and a boulder strewn beach.

Getting There.

Turn off the B8035 at Gribun and just before Balmeanach Farm there is designated parking for the cave. Walk past some farm buildings and then through the marked gate and follow the path to the beach. Be aware that it can be treacherous with slippery rocks and not ideal if you’re not that nimble on your feet.

Take the cliff path, and it will reward you with views across to the Treshnish Isles, Staffa, and Coll if the weather permits..

The cave is thought to be one of the deepest in the Hebrides and has an aura of its own so typical of the western isles.

Carsaig Arches.

Getting There.

After loch Beg bridge stay on the A849 for three miles. Look out for the Pennyghael Community Café & Art Gallery then shortly after, take a minor road on the left which you follow down to the coast. From there its on foot to the arches. I would recommend good clothing and footwear combined with 1:2500 scale Ordinance Survey map of the area.

Nearby beaches.

Ardalanish Beach.

This sandy beach with rocky outcrops can be reached by taking the small road south from Bunessan past Newcrofts B+B. Follow the road towards Ardchiavaig but take a right turning to Ardachy house. Just past there is a car park for Ardalanish Beach.

Knockyologan Beach.

South of Fionnphort, Knockvologan Beach boasts everything you need, white sands and blue waters. The Island of Erraid and small surrounding islands, provide added places to lose yourself.

Getting There.

To find the beach take the B road heading south near the Fionnphort car park.  Follow the road past the village of Fidden to Knockvologan Farm where the road finishes. There is a small amount of parking near the farm but please take care not to block gates or access for the farm. I would recommend getting there early so as not to be disappointed.

From the parking walk down the track to the beach. Low tide is best as there is plenty of sandy beaches to see and the shoreline of the Isle of Erraid to explore if you fancy a hike.

Isle of Mull Wildlife.

Mull is a great place to see wildlife including dolphins, seabirds, otters, deer, and white-tailed eagles.

Otters.

Watching Otters.

Otters dive for an average of 20 seconds, and if you want to get closer this is the time to move. It helps to wear dull clothing and stay low, so your silhouette is not seen from the otter’s point of view. Stay downwind of the otter to prevent it from noticing your smell.  When the otter surfaces, freeze, and wait for the next dive before you move.

Where to See Otters

Pay particular attention to areas of seaweed and rocks, it’s around here they find their food.  You may be lucky enough to spot one on rocks, eating or grooming. Check out areas of seaweed where they might be taking a rest in the sunshine.

Don’t try and get too close or you will disturb the Otter, and if then see or smell you, they will quickly disappear. Often, it’s a good idea to stay in one place and let the Otter come to you.

Isle of Mull, the land of Eagles.

We often see eagles circling above the house here in Appin. Some are Golden Eagles from high in the hills. But for the most part its white-tailed Sea Eagles looking for dinner, and it’s not that far as the Eagle flies over to Mull.

Mull boasts the highest breeding density of Golden Eagles in Europe but there are difficult to spot keeping high up in the hills.

However, Mull’s population of sea eagles is focused around the coastline improving the chances of seeing one.

Wildlife Tours.

If you really want to see as much wildlife as possible Mull Wildlife Tours  at the Ulva Ferry provide tours to help you get the best experience while on the island.

For our next episode were on to Fionnphort, and the ferry across to the Isle of Iona, an amazing place to visit. Join us to discover this beautiful island

Enjoy Life!

John.

If you enjoyed your visit with us, please subscribe up to our newsletter to receive regular updates of what’s new and upcoming at The Westcoaster. Subscribe Here

©John Webber. 2023